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Alan Richman, the restaurant critic at GQ , who is a champion of white-tablecloth haute cuisine, told me that Les Halles was not a particularly good restaurant when he was cooking there, and it got worse when he stopped. This seemed a little unfair: I frequented Les Halles before it closed, in 2016, and until the end it was rowdy and reliable, with a good frise salad and a sturdy cassoulet
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